Monday, October 10, 2011

Licking the Spoon

When I originally envisioned this column my idea was to create a place to talk about food in Walla Walla. What we are doing here that is good and what is not. Things that are worth your time, effort and money and those things that are not. While we have been doing a lot of recipes and general cooking instruction since the beginning, we have not yet tackled a review of a place or thing. Over the next few weeks I am going to be doing just that. While this might seem like suicide to many in a small town like ours, I think it is the one thing that is sorely lacking here. Real reviews that are unflinchingly honest, good or bad and not just “fluff” pieces meant to stroke peoples egos. That’s not my bag, baby. So without further ado, here we go. . . .
This past weekend my family and I went out for lunch/brunch/late breakfast, whatever you want to call it. This is not a regular thing for us, as like many of you, funds are generally tight and eating out is a luxury that is only seldom deemed necessary and or affordable. Since we had not tried it yet, we opted for Greenspoon downtown. When we arrived, the place was very busy with like minded people, although the wait was less than five minutes to get seated with a party of six, including two children.
Once seated our waiter brought menus, paper, and some crayons and activity pages for the kids, nice touch. I really felt like having a bloody Mary, as the kids were in rare form that day, but alas not to be had, just beer and wine, oh well. Here is my first criticism, our waiter should have pointed out the “bloody beer” option (which I found on my own) to me as it’s a great option for those that are looking for that little something. I opted for corona instead of the silver bullet, and was not disappointed at all. Note to wait staff, suggest this option as it is fantastic, really, and could easily be missed by many of us.
Service proceeded from there well. Our waiter brought drinks quickly, I also ordered an iced tea, which was refreshingly strong and fresh (Thank you!) the perfect counter point to my bloody beer. Orders were taken without any issues, even with the buzz in the restaurant conversation was easy and not loud and you could still here the music which was pleasant and not too loud, someone here is really paying close attention to the details. No one had to shout at the waiter and no one had to ask him to speak up. Very pleasant.
Two of our party opted for the “Rachel” a turkey version of a Rueben sandwich, two opted for the burger, one for the kids eggs and bacon, and I the biscuits and gravy. Now, here is where things really start to succeed or fail for most restaurants. Our food arrived quickly, like under 10 minutes quickly and this is with the restaurant mostly packed. Impressive. Everything was cooked as ordered and arrived without flourish but exactly as it should. Bravo.
Something often overlooked in many restaurants is the fact that when people are dining together they usually appreciate actually EATING together. As in don’t bring half or some of the plates then wait ten minutes to bring the rest. Also, wait staff that fail to check their orders BEFORE they leave the kitchen need to understand that if something is wrong on a plate when it leaves the kitchen, it will be coming back. Kitchen staff that fail to take care of their wait staff will be fixing plates when they could be getting their other orders out. . . .
None of that happened with our orders. They arrived, perfectly. Plates were not too hot to handle. This is a sure sign that people are actually COOKING in the kitchen and not just sticking things in the micro. Again, bravo. Now, this is where it gets down to brass tacks, how it tastes. Again, this is where most people who do reviews, just gloss over the facts and fail to write anything of substance. Well, not me. I tell it like it is sister. And it was FLAWLESS. Really. Flawless. Best biscuits and gravy, ever. I have eaten B&G for many, many years, I am something of an expert and a connoisseur (if you can use that term about one of the simplest foods ever). These rocked. If the biscuits were not fresh made then it was a darn good show, because they tasted like they were just made that day, and did not seem to be “from a package” but rather made in house, I will check on this fact for you. Gravy, was also fresh made, not too “floury” or tasting of un cooked flour. Nice bits of sausage and a good spice without being “spicy”.
Portion size was also perfect. One of my other issues is that most breakfast spots usually either go too big or too small. I.e. there is too much to eat and you are force to leave it (wasteful) or take away (again wasteful that you need a container usually foam). The rest offer tiny portions that leave you hungry and charge you an arm and a leg for “spa” food. No thanks. These guys, have it spot on. Again, bravo.
The rest of my group thoroughly enjoyed their meals as well, my oldest devouring here eggs and bacon. The youngest really enjoyed her burger and REALLY enjoyed the chips that came with it. The “Rachel’s” were dispatched with great gusto and finished, although I did hear that it was almost too much, which for that person is a great compliment, trust me. My wife also had the burger and she really enjoyed it, with the correct proportions of meat, bread and condiments elevating the flavors of the meat and not overshadowing them. My breakfast also came with potatoes (always a plus) and two farm fresh eggs that were cooked, perfectly. Again, as I am sure you are painfully aware by now, I am particular about my food, and when I say something was done perfectly you can guarantee that it really was. Really.
I really wanted to finish my plate out of respect for Chef Gene and Katie, who have obviously gone through a lot of thought about their restaurant top to bottom. BTW, it is considered, in some circles, that leaving food on your plate at a restaurant is disrespectful to the chef, even insulting. It is an indication that you did not find it satisfactory, so please consider this when dining out. I left one bite, because try as I might, it was almost too much for me to finish, but it was thoroughly enjoyed, make no mistake of that.
Prices were extremely reasonable, even on the inexpensive side, for the quality of ingredients and care that went into our meal. Average price was about $10 a person, and again no one walked away needing more. Although there are many other items on the menu that I would like to try I am going to have a hard time going back and NOT ordering the same thing, it was seriously THAT GOOD. I really wanted to go and wrap my arms around Gene and plant a big wet one on his cheek to let him know how much I enjoyed it, but felt discretion was the better option this time round.
If you go, please make note of everything on the menu and ask your server what they like, I seriously doubt that you will be disappointed by anything offered. Gene Soto and Katie Gonzalez have created an amazing addition to Walla Walla and the restaurant scene here. Ambiance, simplicity, service and food are all spot on. Just remember to ask your waits person about the “bloody beer” if you are craving that Sunday morning pick me up. . . .Cheers.

Greenspoon is located at 13 E. Main st. in Downtown Walla Walla, next to Bright’s Candies. Hours are
M, W, Th: Lunch - 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Dinner - 5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Friday: Lunch - 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Dinner - 5:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Saturday: Brunch - 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Dinner - 5:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Sunday: Brunch - 8:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Phone: 509 240 6288. Reservations are not required, but it is always respectful with large parties and helps avoid wait times if you are in a hurry.
All restaurant information can be found at: http://www.greenspoonw2.com/ and their menu is posted there as well. Bon Appetite.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

School Lunch Part Two . . . .

After reading the last installment of the Walla Walla Table, a friend commented that she loved the article but now felt guilty about what she had been doing for her kid’s school lunches. This is always my fear, that someone will feel that I am calling them out on things. Well, I kind of am, but in a positive way (I hope). I promise to not raise problems that I do not have a solution to, if you promise to not take things too seriously. It’s just food, people.
So I promised some better suggestions for your kid’s lunch so here we are delivering on that promise. I am hoping that we can get several recipes printed this week that will allow you to create some better choices and save yourself some time and frustration in the coming weeks. My first question is, does it HAVE to be a sandwich? Sandwiches are very popular lunch items as you can usually eat them on the go, with one hand and no utensils are required. Why are we afraid of giving our kids utensils? Are you really afraid they are going to shank some other kid or the yard duty on the playground? Have they done it at home? Giving your kids a bit more responsibility is a good thing, make it fun and make them responsible for bringing them home. Go to the 2nd hand store and let them pick out a knife, fork and spoon, and make THEM pay for it. Their money, they will tend to be more responsible. And if they lose it, they get to buy another one with THEIR money again. Trust me a few purchases will solve any forgetful child’s issues. There is a Preschool in France where every meal if served with knife, fork and spoon and on real plates(not paper or plastic) and with real glasses, and those kids are 2 to 5. And they eat vegetables, lots of them. Why can’t we do this with our 6+ year olds? ‘Nuff said.
We all get in that rut of not knowing what to make for our kids lunch, but usually the answer is so easy that it is too obvious. Leftovers. You don’t always have to do what you did last night, but leftovers are a great way to get your kids to eat a better variety of foods (assuming that you are cooking a better variety of foods) than just the sandwich. And just to be clear a “wrap” is just a sandwich by another name, seriously. Soups, stews, pastas, and salads and even proteins are great the next day, assuming proper storage and handling at the home kitchen. More on this another time.
Last go round I gave you the simple vinaigrette recipe. Great on veggies, even meats and salads and even on couscous. Couscous is a simple wheat pasta that is usually steamed or boiled and common in North Africa. It is a pasta, so note that there are a good amount of carbs in it. BUT, you can mix a bit with the vinaigrette and serve it cold like a salad, and is great with some garden cherry tomatoes.
If your kids will eat the vinaigrette then you are golden. There are many different riffs you can use that on and embellish and improve upon as you wish. Want an Asian flavor; add some sesame oil and Chinese black vinegar in place of the EVOO and wine vinegar. This is great on a simple salad of grated carrots, fresh thin sliced mushrooms and cucumber. Add some toasted sesame seeds and you have something very fun that almost any kid will eat.
Take a boiled piece of chicken, let it cool, slice thin and toss it in the vinaigrette. Serve with some fresh sliced tomatoes from the garden while we still have them. Better yet, toss the tomatoes first, and the tomato water that collects in the bowl will add to the flavor, then toss the boiled chicken with that. This is another item that can be packed in a school lunch.
When you have to make sandwiches, don’t be afraid to reach into the “way back” machine for some great old classics. I made my daughter egg salad one day, when she asked what she was getting for lunch and I told her, I heard the “eww gross” and “I don’t want that” (yes it happens to me too people). When she got home from school, she asked if she could have egg salad again tomorrow. . . there you go. If you have a “fancy Nancy” fan, why not make high tea sandwiches? Little cream cheese some cucumber slices and fancy it up a bit, frilly toothpicks and all. In this case, playing with your food is acceptable. But again, moderation and variation is the key, diversity is a good thing.
Fruit is a great one to experiment with. Fresh pineapple, mangoes, kiwi. We had a babysitter that had never eaten kiwi until I offered it to her. Said it was one of the best things she ever ate. Papaya, guava when you can find them. There are so many different kinds of apples and pears coming on right now too. Don’t be afraid to try something new, if you aren’t then your kids won’t either. Cheers.
Couscous
Chicken or vegetable stock, preferably your own, but canned (good) will do in a pinch (see we keep going back to that pantry). About 2 quarts or so.
EVOO
1 Onion (med) diced
Couscous. I prefer the hand rolled to the machine cut that you find at the Super Market.
In a stock pot heat 2 to 3 TBSP of EVOO over med/high heat, add onion (you should hear the sizzle). Sauté onion until translucent. Add stock and bring to a boil, covered. Once a good boil is achieved, reduce to a simmer and add in your couscous, in a stream through your fist, until you have added about 2 cups worth, whisking the whole time. Reduce heat to low, and cover, stirring occasionally until couscous has soaked up the stock. Remove from heat, cover and let stand for 5 min. Season with salt and pepper. Great with dinner hot, or let cool, add vinaigrette and serve as a cold pasta salad. Garnish with whimsy.
Classic Egg Salad
6 hard boiled eggs (put them in the pot with cold water, bring to a simmer, covered and cook for 10 to 20 minutes. Remove to an ice water bath and let cool) chopped and mashed with a fork
Mayonnaise, homemade is better, 1 to 2 TBSP (less is more)
Good Dijon mustard 1 to 2 tsp
Pickle relish (sour or “dill” not sweet), preferably from really good pickles, 1 TBSP
Salt and pepper and EVOO
In a bowl combine all ingredients and mix together thoroughly, taste. Adjust seasoning if necessary. To this you can add celery or whatever else you fancy, just no sugar please.
Tea Sandwiches
Good Bread (this is a must. Do NOT settle for the “wonder” type stuff), sliced, crusts removed if you must.
Cream cheese or even better fresh chevre (goat cheese).
Cucumber, English or common, peeled and sliced thinly. It might be easier to split lengthwise and cut rather than trying to keep it from rolling while slicing.
Salt and pepper, EVOO
I prefer to toast my bread gently in the oven or toaster on the lowest setting to dry the bread a bit. Bring the cheese to near room temp and blend together with about 2 TBSP of EVOO to soften. If the bread is soft and the cheese is cold you ain’t gonna have no fancy sandwiches, just a big mess. Spread toasted bread with cheese and layer cucumber slices on. Season with salt and pepper. Feel free to cut into cute shapes and such. It’s your party do what you want. This recipe can be adapted to many things, including blanched asparagus and prosciutto, or quick blanched green beans and prosciutto, whatever your little ones will eat, just be creative and get them to taste it too.
Sources:
Eggs, there are many places to buy local eggs, including: Andy’s Market, Salumiere Cesario, Local CSA programs are providing some eggs right now as well.
Asian ingredients; most of the local Super Markets carry some Asian ingredients, but the Asia Oriental Store on Issacs has a good selection of hard to find items, as does Salumiere Cesario (black vinegar).
Local tomatoes; if you are not fortunate enough to have your own garden look into one of the many CSA’s around, as well as some of our local farms: wallawallafarmmap.com
Good bread, made by human hands is readily available at John’s Wheatland Bakery and the Walla Walla Bread Co. Support our locals whenever possible and ask your local market to carry the local breads if you have trouble getting downtown.
Pickles and relish made from locally raised cucumbers and naturally fermented can be obtained at Salumiere Cesario, I hear they have good peanut butter too. . . .